Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
